The Ultimate Kerala Itinerary: 1 to 2 week travel guide
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I have to be honest - I often find travelling in India quite exhausting, especially after a few weeks in the country. It's often a lot, on so many different levels: colours, odors, sounds, food, people. This is often incredibly exciting, but for someone like me that struggles with sensory overload it can also get quite exhausting.
Kerala however is an oasis of relative calm in India. The pace feels more relaxed, the streets noticeably cleaner, and there's an underlying sense of order that makes everything feel more manageable. Perhaps it's the influence of the lush backwaters and coastal breezes, or maybe it's the state's progressive approach to governance and education, but Kerala offers all the richness of Indian culture wrapped in a more gentle, accessible package.
Read on for my comprehensive guide to exploring this region of India!
Key information at a glance
| Daily budget: | 25 - 60 EUR/day, depending on travel style |
| Best time to travel: | October to March (avoid monsoon season June-September) |
| For you if: | You want to experience India's culture and nature without the overwhelming chaos - perfect for first-time India visitors or those seeking a more relaxed pace |
| Country Overview: | Head here for a general overview over India |
Know before you travel
The monsoon shapes everything
Kerala has two monsoon seasons - the southwest monsoon from June to September and a lighter northeast monsoon from October to December. That being said we visited from August to September and even though it sometimes rained, this did not diminish our experience in any way. However we heard this depends on the year, if the rains get very heavy, it can be quite disruptive. Roads flood, boat services stop, and some attractions close. If you're visiting during monsoon season, pack waterproof gear and be flexible with your plans.
Don't forego sleeping on houseboat, but book early!
The backwaters of Kerala are beautiful and we loved the experience of spending the night on a houseboat. (Although Cordt didn't sleep as the gentle rocking somehow disturbed him XD). If you are travelling in high season, be sure to book a houseboat as early as you can! The good ones get booked out super quickly. Don't expect luxury - these are converted rice barges, not floating hotels.
A word on Ayurveda
Kerala is the birthplace of Ayurveda, and you'll find treatments everywhere. Be careful in picking one though! They are not all legitimate, some are just fancy spas with Ayurvedic branding or just geared at tourists and making quick money, without the person having the proper training. If you want authentic treatment, do your research and book at established centers.
Dress modestly, especially in temples
Kerala is more conservative than Goa or other beach destinations in India. Cover your shoulders and knees when visiting temples or local areas. Many temples don't allow non-Hindus inside, but you can usually appreciate the architecture from outside. Always remove shoes before entering any temple.
Spice levels are no joke
Kerala food can be seriously spicy, even dishes that don't look it. When ordering, ask for "less spicy" (or "medium spicy" if you are very brave). The coconut-based gravies are usually not spicy, and you might want to order a lassi or buttermilk on the side to cool your mouth.
How to travel around Kerala
Kerala's transport network is decent, though not as polished as some other Indian states. A mix of buses, trains, and hired transport works best for most travelers, depending on where you're going.
Self-driving
The above being said, we still ended up hiring a car a few times: We were based in Kochi and did several weekend trips around the Kerala. If you are a confident driver and have driven in the sometimes chaotic traffic conditions of Southern or Southeast Asia before I think this is a great way to travel around the state. Our landlord was visibly nervous about us attempting this, so expect some raised eyebrows, but compared to other places we've done roadtrips in, navgating Kerala traffic was a breeze.
Public transportation
Kerala's bus network covers every corner of the state and costs almost nothing. State-run KSRTC buses are generally more reliable than private ones. Be aware that both can get very crowded! For longer journeys, look for "Volvo" AC buses - they're more comfortable and not much more expensive.
Trains connect major cities like Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, and Kozhikode, but the network isn't as extensive as in other parts of India. Book sleeper class for overnight journeys, as it's comfortable and cheap.
The metro in Kochi is modern and useful for getting around the city, but it only covers limited areas. We never took it as we found it much more practical to rely on taxis and Ubers. This was the main way we got from A to B within the city. We also walked a few times but this quickly gets very exhausting with the amount of traffic and the lack of sidewalks.
Hired transport and taxis
If you do not want to drive yourself and still want to venture to hill stations like Munnar, hiring a car with a driver would make sense. If this is a bit too costly for you, you could try to pair up with other travellers - it is quite affordable when split between people. Most hotels can arrange this, or you can book through apps like Ola.
Auto-rickshaws / Tuk Tuks are perfect for short distances within cities. Always agree on the price beforehand - meters exist but drivers rarely use them for tourists. A short ride should cost between 50-100 rupees.
How long should you spend in Kerala?
Map Overview
Here's a quick overview of the main sights in Taiwan that we cover in this itinerary:
