The ultimate Namibia self-drive itinerary: Discover the highlights in 14 days (no 4x4!)

This itinerary is perfect if you have your own vehicle - this does not have to be a 4x4 and does not need to come with a (roof)tent. If you are interested in more information on what the pros and cons of a 4x4 are and what would be the best car for your journey, ead to our article on which car to drive in Southern Africa.
Check out our fact sheet about Namibia to get a general overview of the country.

Day 1: Windhoek

Arrive in Windhoek on day 1, pick up your car and wander around the city for a bit. We have to be honest - we find there is not much to do or see inside the capital, the real allure of the country is outside of the city.

If you have time, you can go to the Christuskirche and the Independence Memorial Museum. Roberto's Pizzeria is a good option for lunch or dinner. Go to bed early as you have a long driving day tomorrow!

Day 2-3: Fish River Canyon

A long day of driving (620km, ca. 6h 30min) gets you to the region around Grunau where you will spend two nights. We stayed and can recommend White House Guest Farm. While the guest farm is modest, its cleanliness and the warmth of the hosts make it a commendable choice.

Spend a full day to visit Fish River Canyon - this spectacular canyon is one of the largest in the world and offers dramatic vistas and excellent hiking opportunities. Stop at least at one viewpoint. You can take a break and get coffee at the canyon roadhouse on the way. As of 2024, the park entrance fee is NAD160 (approximately US$11) per person.

If you love hiking, are fit, have a bit more time and are visiting during the South African winter, you can even hike the whole length of the canyon. This takes 4-5 days and is quite an endeavour - head to the Stingy Nomads Blog if you'd like to know more about this option.

Day 4-5: Luderitz and Kolmannskop

After 450km (around 4h 30min) of driving you will reach Luderitz on day 4. Spend two nights in this coastal town, renowned for its unique German colonial architecture and its proximity to the ghost town of Kolmanskop.

You should set aside a full day to explore the eerie, sand-swallowed remains of Kolmanskop. Once a bustling diamond mining town, it is now slowly being covered in sand - in a few decades, this ghost town will vanish entirely beneath the dunes. The history of Kolmanskop is captivating: it sprang up in only a few months when a laborer named Zacharias Lewala discovered a diamond here. This find led the German Empire to declare the area as "Sperrgebiet" (Forbidden Territory) and quickly capitalize on the extensive diamond resources.

For the best pictures, arrive early in the morning when the sand is still untouched from the footsteps of other tourists. The entry is N$130 Namibian dollars (ca. 7 USD) for a standard entry from 8 am to 1 pm or N$330 Namibian dollars for an all-day ticket, including sunrise and sunset. We spend around 2-3 hours wandering around the ruins and taking pictures.

If you really love ghost towns, you can join a tour that takes you to Elizabeth Bay Ghost Town inside the Sperrgebiet. As this is inside the restricted area, you cannot go by yourself. It is also quite inaccessible as it is much deeper into the desert in the South of Luderitz.

Where to stay in Luderitz: We weren't super happy with our AirBnB in Luderitz, so just based on research and reviews we recommend Tranquillity Guest House, Prospectors Inn Hotel or 2FiftySix on Second.

There are not that many restaurants in Luderitz and we mainly cooked at home. The Desert Deli made a nice coffee.

Day 5-7: Sossusvlei and Deadvlei

After Luderitz, embark on a 500km drive (ca 6 hours) to Sesriem, the gateway to the NamibRand Nature Reserve. If you don’t have your own camping gear, finding budget-friendly accommodation can be challenging. After some consideration, we chose to stay at Desert Quiver Camp. Although the experience was modest given the price point, I am convinced that this camp offers the best value in the area. Ensure you're well-prepared with water and supplies before heading to the camp, as it operates on a self-catering basis and buying provisions in the desert can be expensive.

Allocate three full nights in Sesriem, giving you ample opportunity to thoroughly explore the main sights in the park: Deadvlei, Sossusvlei, and Big Daddy Dune. Non 4x4 vehicles can be parked in the designated pakring lot, and from there a shuttle service will get you around the park. Entrance fees for non-residents are 100 NAD per person, and shuttle services cost an additional 150 NAD per person.

Within Sesriem, several dunes offer spectacular sunrise and sunset views, with Dune 45 being the most popular. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes to ascend and the panoramic views from the top are truly spectacular.

If you have to choose just one dune to hike up, make sure you pick Big Daddy Dune - from its peak, you are treated to expansive views of the desert and Deadvlei below, a striking white clay pan studded with the charred remains of ancient trees. You can then run down the dune and walk over the Deadvlei Salt pan - walking around in the scorching heat it's a crazy thought that this area was once full of water.

A short 2km hike from the main parking area brings you to Hidden Vlei, a smaller salt pan where wildlife is often spotted, especially when part of the pan is flooded—a highly recommended detour.

If you still have energy to climb one more dune after walking in sand all day (spoiler alert: it is incredibly exhausting), consider including Big Mamma Dune in your itinerary. Also, consider a quick side trip to Sesriem Canyon. While beautiful, it pales in comparison to Fish River Canyon and other famous canyons - we visited and were a bit disappointed.

A must-do activity is stargazing in the Namib Desert after sunset. The Namib Desert offers one of the world’s most stunning night skies. On a clear night, which is almost a given here, step outside and marvel at the beauty overhead.

Day 8-10: Swakopmund and surroundings

On Day 8, set off for a 350km drive (about 4 hours and 30 minutes) from Sesriem to Swakopmund. Along the way, don't miss the opportunity to stop at the Tropic of Capricorn Sign for a memorable photo. If you arrive in Walvis Bay around lunchtime, consider getting lunch at Godenfang Restaurant Walvis Bay, known for its delicious local cuisine. Afterwards, make a visit to the Flamingo Lagoon to observe the vibrant flamingos. Continue driving to Swakopmund and spend your afternoon exploring the towns charming architecture and quaint streets.

Dedicate another day in Swakopmund to enjoy the plethora of outdoor activities available. We did a Fat Bike Tour through the desert of which I have to be honest I was quite sceptical at the beginning - how fun can just biking on sand be? Turns out, a lot of fun. If you are visiting from July to November, consider a whale or dolphin watching tour with Swakopmund Adventures.

You can either do Spitzkoppe as a day trip from Swakopmund (1h30min driving time one way) or spend one night there (Day 10). The majestic 1728m high peak rises dramatically from the flat surrounding plains, and is only a 1.5-hour drive from Swakopmund. Its granite is more than 120 million years old! We later discovered they have a beautiful desert lodge there - it's expensive, but looks really nice.

For most hikes in Spitzkoppe, you need to arrange a guide in the morning upon arriving there (between 6:30 am and 8:30 am). We were unaware of this when we arrived, so we opted for the two shorter hikes that don't require a guide: Bushman’s Paradise and Small Bushman’s Paradise. Despite this, I found that the journey to Spitzkoppe was absolutely worthwhile. The mountain itself and the surrounding park are truly stunning, offering breathtaking views and a remarkable natural setting.

Where to stay in Swakopmund: Kramersdorf Gästehaus/ Guesthouse and Guesthouse Casa al Mare are both great options.

Where to eat in Swakopmund: Don't expect culinary highlights, but we enjoyed our meals at Gabriele's Italian Pizzeria, Village Cafe and Old Steamer Restaurant.

Day 11-14: Etosha National Park

On Day 25, drive to Etosha National Park - a trip that will take around 5-6 hours (500km). If you’re intrigued by shipwrecks and unique sights, consider taking a brief 30-minute detour from Swakopmund along the coast towards Hentiesbaai before heading inland. Make a stop at the Zeila Shipwreck. Here you will see with your own eyes why this area is called the Skeleton Coast: the harsh sea and brutal winds may leave survivors, but once on land the expansive, harsh desert stretches hundereds of kilometres inland.

Spend at least two full days (Day 12 and 13) in Etosha National Park. Get up early on both days so you are inside the park at sunrise - you are most likely to see lions in the mornings when it is not as hot.

Deciding where to stay — inside or outside the park — is crucial. We chose to stay outside the park at Buschberg Guestfarm, as we found it difficult to find well-rated, affordable accommodation within the park. But this is particular to Cordt and my decision making: I hate nothing more than to pay a lot of money for bad service and/or a dirty and run-down accommodation and would rather support a small homestay, even if I have to drive longer to reach my destination. That being said I know quite a few people that stayed inside Etosha and really enjoyed it - if you do, you are the first in the morning in the park and can also go on night safaris.

Etosha is expansive, so to make the most of your time, consider booking accommodations at different ends of the park. This will minimize the time you need to spend driving back-and-forth, and you can focus on spotting as much wildlife as possible.

On Day 14, make your way back to Windhoek to catch your flight out.